You don't have any shielding!
If you have multiple signals on, at the same time, don't they bleed over?
If only one device is on at a time, this will work great.
But if you have 4 devices on, and want to switch between them, there will be a little signal from all of them on the device you want to watch (noise).
Right now i have an X-box and PS2 hooked up. I've had them both on at the same time, it doesn't seem to interfere. I do know what you are talking about though, i worried about that after it was done. I'll try hooking up all 4 inputs at once and tell you what happens. How would you do the shielding for this? Is it somthing i could just put on right now or would it be to much of a hassle and to late?
RE: RE: noise
Keeping the wires as short as possible, is always a good idea. You might be able to use a piece of bare wire and some aluminum foil??? Solder the bare wire to the ground on each of the video jacks and then make sure it touches the foil. And wrap individual foils around each set of 3 wires (audio left, audio right, and video). (tie wraps to hold it in place?) If your not getting any crosstalk now. Great job. But it might be something to add, when you do. Or at least to suggest for other makers.
When I tried this back in the 80's, I couldn't get a clean signal. Maybe the newer devices have a stronger signal....
Knob part # or place to order it from?
I was reading your article, and I really liked the idea. My entertainment center has an NES, SNES, Gamecube, and a Dreamcast at it, yet the TV has 2 sets of RCA inputs, and one is on the front.
My question is, where did you get the knob part from? I'm having trouble finding one...did you use Mouser? or maybe Digikey?
Let me know.
My email is [email protected]
Thanks guys....keep the articles coming!
RE: Knob part #
I didn't order the knob online, i got it at a neighborhood electronics shop. I'll help you track one down though, same style? i'll email you when i find something. I'd love to see your box when its done, post some pictures or something. I'm sure you're reading all the talk, you should probably sheild it, and put it in a metal box. Good luck
More on the knob
I found that if you search for a 3 pole 4 position switch you will get better results. I found that Mouser has the largest selection of switches, they are in the electromechanical section.
Hello I enjoyed your article and have been looking to do something like this for some time. The pictures are great, but do you have a drawing or diagram to follow. The wires in the photos seem to block a lot of information as to where all of the wires go. Have you seen any other tutorials like yours that you were given inspiration?
i didn't really follow any other sites, but i found this one recently that has a diagram...a really crappy one however. i'll get a wiring diagram up for ya though pretty soon. if you ever get yours made post some pictures, love to see what you came up with.
Have you thought about using a pcb for this project. It would reduce the resistance between the incoming and outgoing plugs. The only thing that I can see happening would be signal interference. That could be overcome by making a large gap between each set of plugs. Oh and sorry if my spelling is bad.
A very useful device.
Many years ago, when my hands worked, I had made a few "black box" devices and I can appreciate the planning and execution of this switching system. In the "old days" these items had to be made since nobody was offering them. This created an opportunity to make a few bucks selling instructions and/or kits, the way Radio Shack sold kits. Since I cannot do my own fabrication I have to rely on what is out there to buy already made. It is a shame that I will be buying a store bought switch. It will be so inexpensive that I can't resist. I found one that does three inputs for $7.98 including S&H. If I would have to buy one from an electronics store in town, the cost would easily be quadrupled. Thank goodness for the internet. I saw the wires were unshielded. Just add shielding separately, or use shielded 3 wire cable. It would cost more but probably quiet people complaining of bleeding. One could just turn off the DVD player, the VCR, and the Cable Box, like we do. No extraneous signals to bleed then and that should do it. I hope my rambling doesn't tick anyone off.
Can you tell me anymore about the switch needed for this project? What I really want to know is the amp needed for the switch. Can I use a 1/2 amp switch or do I need more amps?